I don't think that you can change the voltage on the SilverTron Elite. You can change the current but the device has to lower the voltage to maintain the current at it's set maximum. Look at Ohm's Law.

There are other devices which can change the current. There is one which can go lower than 1mA. It sells on eBay and has an inbuilt magnetic stirrer and is lower priced than the SilverTron. Not as versatile and the maximum quantity is more limited.

We don't change the voltage. When we first start the generator, the voltage is always high and the current is near zero because the water is mostly an insulator. However, as silver ions build up in the water, a current in milliamps begin to flow across the electrodes, and the voltage slowly declines because of the higher current. It is important to limit the current flowing between the electrodes so as to prevent larger chunks of silver from being stripped from the electrodes.

Take the case of 3 - 9 volt batteries in series connected directly to the electrodes. In this case, there is no limits to the current flowing, and the current continues rising until the result is silver MUD with large useless silver particles.

To prevent making silver MUD, we need to limit the current flowing between the electrodes. Here-in lies the main advantage of the Silvertron Elite. I can set the maximum allowable current to between 1 milliamp to 15 milliamps. A person with a large 1 oz. silver anode (+) may want speed and set his current to 15 milliamps max. I prefer taking a much longer time to produce my CS, so I set the current limit to 3 milliamps. This results in 2 hours per quart instead of 15 minutes per quart wit a 1 oz silver bar.

So how do we know the particle size? Shining the laser light through the water, silver MUD shines brightly with large particles. Tiny nano sized particles can hardly be seen. The Hanna PWT meter can give us a decent indication of PPM in either case. 20ppm with silver MUD shines brightly, where 20ppm of nano size particles can barely be seen.

It is difficult to know what each brand of home generator actually does, because they keep vital facts secret in marketing mumbo-jumbo, just like the incredible mumbo-jumbo being told about commercially sold Colloidal Silver . Our on site expert, Esstee dug up a good formula for limiting current to the size of the electrode. A large electrode allows for higher current without creating MUD.

"Current Rating of Generator by Esstee:
The current rating is proportionate to your electrode (+) size. More specifically your Anode(positive electrode). And the rule of thumb on this is typically 1mAh per/sq. inch of wetted electrode.
//www.curezone.org/forums/fm.asp?i=2261094#i
//www.curezone.org/forums/fm.asp?i=2261438#i
Example: //www.curezone.org/forums/am.asp?i=1974002

See more at Build Your Own Generator here:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1wfnslQKQDd3i3ZK5B6jnW2cPv_0QnCTNstWF5trl_hc/edit#

So a well designed home generator should not exceed this current limit. A generator can certainly have less current and I feel that less current provides smaller sized ionic particles, as proven by the laser beam test. No manufacturer I have seen is willing to talk about where they limit their current flow in their product. They keep their voltage & current a secret and instead prefer to discuss superlatives with flowers & honey. This is what I like about the Silvertron Elite... It STARTS with a built in digital voltmeter & milliammeter direct to the electrodes so we can see what the hell is happening. I don't like black boxes doing unknown things. I like to know what I'm doing and being in control of vital parameters. We can obviously hook two meters to our electrodes to see what is happening, but I just don't want to go through that hassle every time I make CS.

Hope this helps,
Grizz