HOW TO MAKE Colloidal Silver
FOR PENNIES A GALLON!
Anyone can now make Colloidal Silver
once they know how. Making
is much easier than you would imagine. There are
however a few things you need to know to do it right.
NOTE: This report is intended to instruct you in how to make
colloidal silver for yourself. Any applications of colloidal
silver mentioned are simply by way of example and are not
intended as recommendations or diagnoses in any way. You can and
should make your own decisions concerning how you use colloidal
silver. If you desire medical advice, you should consult a
medical practitioner. NOTHING IN THIS REPORT IS OR SHOULD BE
CONSTRUED AS MEDICAL ADVICE OR DIAGNOSES.
The basic process is simply to pass a small electric current
through distilled water using a silver electrode. Contrary to
popular belief, distilled water will conduct a small amount of
electricity, allowing production of micro particulate colloidal
While many have advocated "seeding" the solution with a previous
batch of colloidal silver and/or a few grains of sodium chloride
(common table salt
), this is actually unnecessary and I don't
recommend it. You only need to raise the voltage until you
achieve an adequate production rate.
The key here is to adjust the voltage to produce silver particles
at a reasonably slow rate, while not taking too long to get
results. You can produce a good batch of 10-40 ppm colloidal
silver in about 4 to 24 hours. If the process proceeds too
quickly you will be creating larger particles, which is not
advisable. And, while there is no harm in running the process
more slowly, there is no need to take longer than about a day or
The basic process runs well at about 30 volts DC. Usually three 9
volt batteries connected in series (27 volts) will do the job
nicely. If it doesn't seem to be working after about half an
hour, you can simply add another battery or two until it starts
working. If you can obtain a variable DC power supply that will
supply 20-50 volts, you will be in fine shape and won't have to
keep buying batteries.
Although many have spoken of using two silver electrodes immersed
in a container of water, I have not found this to be the optimal
method. I have found that using a silver positive electrode with
a stainless steel negative electrode seems to work much better.
While a piece of stainless flatware (e.g. a fork or spoon) will
work fine, a large stainless mixing bowl or pot is preferable.
For the silver electrode, absolutely DO NOT USE STERLING SILVER!
Sterling is only about 70% silver. Some have suggested that you
must use only .9999 fine (or finer) silver. While you would do no
harm using such pure silver, there is actually no need to go to
such extremes. The standard for purity in silver is .999 fine
(which purity will be just fine :-).
Since we are producing colloidal silver at 10-40 ppm, using .999
fine will result in maximum impurities of only 10-40 parts per
BILLION! This is much less than the impurities you will find in
distilled water. Probably .99 fine silver would work as well,
though the savings over .999 fine would be relatively
insignificant (it might even cost more, being nonstandard).
You should be able to get .999 fine silver at any local jewelry
supply store. I buy mine at a local shop that crafts jewelry and
sells supplies for crafting your own. I prefer to buy it in
ribbon form about an eighth inch
wide, though you may also find
it in sheet or wire form. Just make sure you ask for "fine"
silver and not sterling. I just say I'm using it for chemistry
(which I am) and need the pure silver.
Silver is currently quite inexpensive at only about 4 to 5
dollars per ounce. Which amounts to only about half a dollar to a
dollar a foot in ribbon form. Don't be misled into paying $10 for
a couple of 3-5 inch
lengths of silver wire. This simply is
highway robbery! I just buy a few feet of silver ribbon at a time
and it makes many gallons of colloidal silver.
The easiest way to make colloidal silver is to fill your
stainless bowl or pot with a gallon or two of distilled water,
dangle your piece of silver into the water and apply the voltage
via a couple of clip leads. You want to make sure the silver
doesn't touch the stainless container and make sure the clip
leads stay out of the water. The negative electrode connects to
the bowl while the positive electrode connects to the silver. You
can use a wooden spoon or a plastic ruler or some other non
conductor laid across the bowl to dangle the silver from.
During production, some of the silver will not convert into
colloid and so will not remain suspended. This will form a bit of
a scum, some of which will float on the water, while the rest
will collect on the surface of the container and/or the silver
electrode. You should let this settle and simply strain out any
remaining with a cloth or other filter. If more settles out, just
leave it. Don't try to mix it back in since it isn't colloidal
and shouldn't be used. The silver that remains suspended is what
you are after.
If you carefully weigh your piece of silver both before and after
production, you can get a pretty good idea of how many parts per
million you are getting. Since some of it doesn't form colloid
and is discarded, you will have to take this into account when
figuring your remaining ppm. You can either just estimate it or
you can try to measure it if you like. You simply divide the
weight of the silver used, by the weight of the water then
multiply by a million to get parts per million.
MISCELLANEOUS HINTS AND TIPS
I usually don't bother with exact measurements, since the precise
concentration does not seem to be that important. I've used
commercial colloidal silver in various concentrations, from 5 ppm
to 500 ppm. While some have suggested that you should dilute your
colloidal silver to something below 40 ppm, I have not found a
good reason to do so. The important thing seems to be keeping the
colloidal silver in your mouth for a while to help with
absorbtion. This is because stomach acid may hinder absorbtion.
Particle size is mainly a function of production rate and should
be fine as long as you don't try to go too fast.
If you just let the process run all day or all night, then let it
settle for a while or maybe over night and strain it, you should
wind up with good colloidal silver. Usually it turns out clear,
then changes to golden yellow after a day or two.
Sometimes I've had it turn out gray, but after letting it settle
out, it seemed to be okay. Some have suggested that the gray
color means it's contaminated with too much chloride or nitrate,
so you may wish to discard gray batches. If it comes out violet
or other colors, it's probably contaminated and should be
discarded or used for disinfecting laundry or other less critical
Be sure to rinse out and wipe off your container and silver
electrode with each batch you make. A final rinse with a little
distilled water will also help reduce any stray contaminants.
That's about it. If you have questions or comments please direct
and I will try to answer your questions and incorporate your
comments in a future update.
For additional reading and information please refer to the links
Thanks for reading. I hope you enjoy putting your new found
knowledge to good use.
If you know anyone who you feel may benefit from it, please feel
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