I have been involved in the Water Ionizer
industry for over 5 years and have built and repaired many water ionizers myself as the Technican for Bawell.
I see many problems with the design listed there.
1. You need to use titanium plates coated with platinum, not titanium strips.
2. I do not see how the water will remain separated into the alkaline and acidic components once it is "ionized" in the device.
There is no medium to keep the Alkaline Water
on one side or the acidic water on the other side. The force of gravity will force the water down and it will re-mix in the center of the design, where the tube is located. It may be separated while the current is "on" in the tube. However once the current is "off" the elecrtic potential will disappear and the water will re-mix in the center. In addition 1 gallon of water weighs 8.34 lbs.
I don't see how on an open structure connecting the two gallons will stop this 8.34 lbs of force on each gallon of water from re-mixing, of from mixing while the current is on. I personally do not believe the device pictured will work. A better design would be to have flowing water past the two plates, with the plates about 1/5 centimeters apart, then collect the flowing water in two separate gallons, as one side of the flowing water will be alkaline and one side of the flowing water will be acidic.
We have machines that have been returned with our 60 day return policy which we actively sell on ebay all the time, they sell for 200 to 600 depending on the model. I think you should look there before you attempt to build this device. As a repair technician who has built and repaired hundreds of water ionizers that design will not work, go with the flowing water design and the plates closely spaced. Buy a PH meter to test the water, so you dont drink acidic water. PH strips do not work.
Best of luck
Our ebay account with active auctions on gently used water ionizers:
Here is our facebook page if you want to learn or message others