I'm currently doing nystatin enemas to help eliminate candida and seb derm. I've been thinking of other enemas to do which are;
-Apple cider vinegar and garlic enemas
-black wormwood parasite tincture (now foods brand) enemas
-Slippery elm enemas
-Crushed probiotic enemas
-wheatgrass powder enemas
-spiriulina powder enemas
-coconut Oil Enema s
Has anyone tried any of these in enemas?
If so, what results did they have using them?
I think I may also have intestinal parasites so that's why I want to try an enema using a parasite tincture.
i just do nystatin eneams and i hold the enema tills its absorbed. i usually do two cups of distilled water with it. then after i absorb a probiotic enema. i really dont do any other enemas.... i making some kefir and im thinking about using the kefir in a enema because it has the beneficial yeast in it that i might need to add to my gut flora.
Thats prescription meds, right? I am doing a saline one now that I added a drop of Dawn Platnim dish soap (has some kind of enzymes) and a drop of eucalyptus oil. It was just a small one to see of I can handle it myself lol Ionly made it 3 minutes because the cramps were terrible... anyway, I have packets of aquarium meds here. 250mg flagyl and 75 mg praziquantel (sp?) Per packet... I was gonna make metro gel as a topical anti fungal for my kids friend with rosacea but then never dis because i was afraid of the extra ingredient, which was the anti parasitic drug. Now im wondering if i can mix that in an enema? Just like dump part of the packet in. Will it work the same way as oral use? I hear things are absorbed better anally sometimes plus of theres something in there, it will get blasted with meds?
I did and all im finding is references to people taking it orally and then having enemas. I mixed a pouch of the flagyl/biltricide in another douche type saline enema along with a drop of Dawn Platinum dish detergent and 2 drop of eucalyptus oil. I wanted to attempt another go at it since thw first one didn't go as planned, but after having my coffee this morning, it got me going again so maybe I'll hold off. The medicine doesnt aeem irritating to mucous membranes, so it should be ok. Im gonna hold off though and research a little more. Flagyl is an antifungal, right? So, if it doesnt harm parasites, that should at least knock out candida, no?
Hmm, yeah it should at least affect the candida, I'm not sure if it will completely knock it out though. Candida has a way with becoming resistant to most anti fungals, only way you'll know I guess is if you try it. Just start off with really small amounts and see how you feel, maybe do a water enema first to clear the bowels so the candida is exposed?
You could do a parasite cleanse first and then try the enemas? Or even do them at the same time?
When you say to "clear ths bowels so the candida is exposed" I'm trying to picture how candida grows in the body. I am REALLY trying to make sense of what is coming out of my body and other possibilities instead of jumping to conclusions and thinking worms right away. One of the most troubling things I've passed was this enormous thing that was sort of S or Z shaped. I shook it loose from what looked like a normal BM and what ever it was, looked like a BM itself because it was brown, but after soaking in the toilet (it didn't go down after the first flush, it was so huge!) I could see white showing through on the sides, so rigt away I'm FLIPPING out thinking i just passed a worm that was as thick as string cheese or a mozzarella stick and twisted into this Z shape. I'm a very small person, so to have something so big come out is unimaginable. I won't post a pic here because its disgusting to look at lol but now I'm wondering if it could have been an enormous piece of candida that was twisted in my intestine (hence the twisted shape) and broke off and flushed out with all this flushing I'm doing. I've read people describing it to have a string cheese appearance, and that's what it kind of reminded me of. But anyway, I'm contemplating another enema because I can not take this feeling I'm having like theres something moving around in there.. and I want soo bad to try apple cider vinegar because its supposed to help candida, but I'm petrified IF it is a parasite that the acidity might cause scattering. My issue is one or the other... that's for sure. I just want relief with the least amount of negative consequences lol. And I don't want to be panicked by what I see afterwards!
Garlic enemas are REALLY intense, you'll feel the need to go immediately. Just hold it, the cramp will go away, I promise! I've had 3 close encounters and by the time I get up to release the cramp is gone. I also make mine very strong.
I make my own tinctures : Black-Walnut /WW/clove/ginger/turmeric plus other herbs. I've definitely used them in enemas along with garlic. I've also made really strong tea of tons of different herbs and used them in my enemas. I usually do a starter then 2 - Two liter enemas. If I'm not exhausted by then I do implant with probiotic.
I make my own raw milk kefir and implant about a cup. I am jaded about the probiotics part. Some people argue you should always take them after enemas/other people think after the enema you help the body clean it out and the body itself will take care of repopulating the flora. I think I am so infested that neither happens for me.
Good luck !
I'm thinking of jumping on the enema bandwagon... i bought one of those little douche bottle enemas to start with. I'm thinking of using a drop of eucalyptus oil and tea tree/lavender oil in it (only because using bleach would be frowned upon and painful) I read it helps expell rope worms.. i think thats what my woodchips/poopy stems were. Im desperate to rid my colon of this fluttery crawly feeling.Anyhoo.. i have a few concerns:
1. Will it cause scattering?
2. I ripped out both bath tubs abd installed shower stalls in my bathroom... so where do I lay down? I don't want to risk losing it on the floor :/
Maybe I should go lay outside on a tarp and do it?
I want to try some garlic too but that concerns me that they will scatter... unless i eat a ton of it first and pack both ends with it... they'll be trapped in a garlic wall.
Be careful with what you put in enemas. Very irritating stuff can give you ulcerative colitis symptoms and fecal incontinence. I wanted the itching to stop to in the beginning and i put some peroxide in an enema with water and oh boy. Pain like nothing else. nausea, Total blood coming out. Had to go to the er. I had fecal incontinence for over week and was scared that I would never get my bowel control back. I killed alot of worms but almost killed myself.
Hello Cimber - I've just found this post. I am going to try my first garlic enema tomorrow. My therapist has told me to put 2 BULBS of garlic into a litre of water..... I absolutely do not want to become fecally incontinent, what strength would you recommend?
Thanks in advance, Kate
All of the enemas sound great to me except the nystatin. I would avoid that like the plague because pharmaceutical drugs only serve to increase the number of extremely virulent strains. Try a few drops of Iodine in the enema water instead. You can also put a couple drops of 2% on your tongue after brushing your teeth and brush it into your tongue. And put a few drops in some juice or water and drink it.
I've been using the nystatin for the past week? It's completely cured others within as little as weeks.
What ones out of the things listed do you think would be as strong as the nystatin ? I'm thinking the parasite tincture, slippery elm and coffee ?
Iodine takes too long to work, I don't have a year to wait for this too work and even so it might not actually work. Everyone's bodies are different. I tried the Iodine topically and it worked, but slightly irritated my scalp more, dried my hair out and didn't get rid of it completely.
I do think my problem is also linked to parasite in some way. I know that when I did a parasite cleanse my skin was clear and my nails grew soo long and thick really really quickly!! Hookworms also live in your intestine and feed on your blood, so maybe doing a parasite enema, then an Iodine enema afterwards might work?
The nystatin one actually didn't seem to help for me, the best one for me by far is coffee enemas! And that's because I think my problem is related to my liver and coffee enemas help to detox your liver by helping the flow of bile and therefore helping excrete toxins much quicker
I got so sick of every single tray having tons of mold I threw out 10 out of 12 trays that had mold. But then the next day the next one showed mold and I threw it out. Then the next day the last one showed mold. I keep trying different things but now by day two I am throwing out every tray because of little bits GREEN mold that eventually grow into huge patches of mold, not just the white cilia hairs.
I use bleach to clean the trays. I found mold in the kelp bottle and stopped using it, but still got mold after that. I put on the top tray ajar to give it more air. I made little trenches in the corners for any excess water. I started watering less and less on the first day, thinking I may be over watering. I even started using a spray bottle to make sure not to get too much water on the first day. I ended up cutting back so much I stunted the wheatgrass growth BUT NOT THE MOLD!
I have tried using hydrogen peroxide on the beginning of the mold in futility. I have tried using citrus such as lemon in futility again. I tried using Sea Salt in more futility. I have used a fan but the mold starts even before the top lid comes off, so what’s the use. In the past I tried different seed once. I could try that again, but am not hopeful. Also this is the second bag of different peat moss. I could try another one, but am not hopeful. I even put our $500 ionic air cleaner from our room next to the wheatgrass hoping to kill any airborne mold. Could it be in our house so bad that nothing will stop it? WHAT ELSE CAN I DO? I am so frustrated! Please help me.
I am so determined to keep growing wheatgrass for better health, not to mention the expense in getting started. But I can only go so far and do so much! PLEASE HELP ME I’M GETTING DESPERATE!!!!! :-(
ok when i first started growing wheatgrass i was getting lots of mold just like you, i was also getting poor yield from my grass, by that i mean i wasnt getting much juice from the grass. I have now found a solution to both problems which works extremely well for me. i now never get mold and i get lots of juice from my wheatgrass. this is exactly what i do -
1 - i weigh about 250 - 300g of wheatgrass seed (now i am using barelygrass seed because i prefer the taste)
2 - i transfer the seeds to a stainless steel saucepan and cover with filtered water and leave overnight, very important you use filtered water not just tap water. (i am now experimenting with soaking the seeds longer rather than just overnight, to get better germination results and to use less seeds as they expand more when soaked longer)
3 - once the seeds have been soaked overnight i take the seeds and transfer them to a drainer, which is basically something with small holes in it that i can use to rinse my seeds. i rinse the seeds under tap water and full pressure for a few minutes making sure they recieve a good wash.
4 - now my seeds are ready i get my seed tray and the first thing i do is line the bottom with 2 kitchen paper towels to stop the soil falling out the bottom of the holes in the tray
5 - I now add soil to the tray and also used green and white tea leaves (optional). I fill the soil about 3/4 the way up the tray not to the top. Pat down the soil with the back of your hand or fingers so that the soil is smooth and even.
6 - Now here is what i think has helped me the most. I spread the seeds that i have just washed over the soil in a thin layer, its better if they dont overlap but if they do it doesnt matter, Just make it look like a carpet of seeds covering the soil.
What i used to do was cover the seeds with soil, i find this is not good. Instead all i do is water gently the seeds, just enough to wet them and the soil, dont over soak. Take the tray and cover it so the seeds remain dark. I just put a sheet of newspaper over the top of the tray.
7 - It is best to keep the seeds wet while they are germinating, so every day or every 2 days you can give the seeds a bit of water, just enough to keep them wet, do not soak.
8 - Within 2 or 3 days you will see that they are begining to sprout, keep watering and keep the newspaper on top. Soon they will grow tall and lift the top of the newspaper up. When they do this you can put them out in the sun. I put them on my windowsill in my bedroom. This is good because as they are growing they give off lots of fresh oxygen and act as natural air filters.
This is VERY IMPORTANT - i have found that to avoid mold and get the best yield you need to water from the bottom and not the top when you put them in the sun. To do this i use a 'gravel tray' which is basically a tray without holes that i put under my tray, you can use this or baking tray, anything that will fit under your wheatgrass tray and act as a water reservior.
plastic tray would be better
Now if you were to look at the bottom of your tray when you first put it on the windowsill you will see that there are roots starting to emerge from the holes at the bottom of the tray. When you first put your tray in the sun fill up your gravel tray with filtered water. Do not fill this tray before you put your wheatgrass out in the sun.
You will find that within a few hours your wheatgrass has used up all of this water which has been soaked into the soil and by the roots. Fill up this tray every 2 days with water. I have found that wheatgrass is very thirsty and requires alot of water. but when you water from the top you get lots of mold. if you let the wheatgrass soak up the water it wants by itself the very top remains dry so you dont get mold.
this also makes watering ALOT easier, because when the wheatgrass has grown quite tall watering it all becomes difficult. with a water tray you can just fill it up every 2 days and the wheatgrass will be very juicy when you juice it because it has taken up the water it needs. you will see how quickly it uses up this water and if hot it will use it even faster.
this method has helped me very much, i hope it will help you too.
I got one question. You say you fill the tray up every 2 days but the water in the tray gets used up in a few hours. So do you still put the grass in the sun with no water after its used up for a day until you refill up the tray?
yes, once it is out in the sun i leave it there until i cut it.
The reason i do not fill the water tray before i put it out in the sun is because the soil would absorb the water and the sprouting seeds would not deveolp long roots as they dont have to go far to get some water.
If you let the seeds sprout in the dark, giving just a little bit of water each day to keep them moist they will develop long roots. you know when you have done this correctly as when the tray is ready to be put in the sun you can see roots coming out the bottom of the tray.i just put some newspaper over the tray, and when they lift up the paper put them in the sun.
once in the sun only water them via the water tray not from above as you would do if you covered the top with soil. the only time you water them from above is during sprouting when they are kept dark.
you will notice that the top remains quite dry but the wheatgrass gets all the water it needs from its roots. this has eliminated ALL my mold problems, and when you cut the grass you can cut them right down close to the base and not have to worry about juicing soil
NOTE - i said fill the water tray every 2 days, this is only a rough guide. when its hotter you can fill it more often, i usually water the trays then water again so there is still water in the tray. you will be surprised at how much water wheatgrass actually needs. remember to use clean filtered water!!!!
I also add 2 teaspoons of Sea Salt (proper) to the water when i first put the tray in the sun to ensure my wheatgrass is rich in minerals, as most soil is mineral depleted
---- The reason alot of people get mold growing on wheatgrass is because mold loves moist surfaces, when you cover the seeds with soil and water from above you are creating an ideal environment for mold to grow on (i.e wet soil). It is also important to rinse the seeds properly after they have been soaked.
----- If you find that your grass is growing slowly or is not very green you may need to use fertiliser, especially true if you are just using garden soil from your back yard. I only use organic fertiliser made from urine and water in a 1:10 dilution which i put in the water tray once a week for each tray. Urine is very high in nitrogen and many other benfical nutrients plants need for growth. Although this may sound strange it is practiced in many countries for organic farming
wheatgrass doesnt seem to like strong sunlight, if you grow on a windowsill make sure you turn the tray every day or so to ensure even growth. it will grow shorter in strong sunlight, faster in indirect light
... Here’s how you grow Wheatgrass sucessfully. ... ... gina ... ... WHEATGRASS ... ... Wheatgrass juice revitalizes and energizes humans, and it can do the same for companion birds. While humans must use a special press to extract the juice from wheatgrass, parrots have a built-in juice extractor: their beaks. They squeeze the delicious, nutritious juice from each blade, then discard the indigestible portion. ... Why Wheatgrass Is So Special and How to Grow Wheatgrass At Home ... Chlorophyll, the life-blood of plants, is the main ingredient in wheatgrass. Chlorophyll cleanses the blood by improving the supply o ... [This message is long. Retrieve the whole message]
I have found that if I place 6 small pieces of 3/4 pine in a planting tray with no holes and sit the tray my Wheatgrass is growing in, on top of the pine blocks I have the ideal setup for watering from below. I let all the water get used up by the plants before I add about 12 ounces of water to the bottom tray. This amount of water does not reach over the blocks so the roots must stretch out to reach the water. I don't believe it is good to put so much water in the bottom that the roots are in the water all the time. This method has just about eliminated my mold problem.
As an aside I have found that the large single compartment plastic containers used at salad bars in grocery stores works great for storing cut wheatgrass.
Can anyone tell me if the white mold on wheat grass is dangerous?
i have been growing it for some months and now that the summer is starting the mold is getting bad reaching almost two inches up inot the grass.
I agree with the method of watering from the bottom as the roots reach below the tray so for me too it works,only i just water the floor and place the trays on top will try this methos too.
The slime mold commonly found in tray grown wheat/barleygrass is non-toxic.It is a non-pathenogenic form of fungi,that can be a royal pain in the #^*$.Strict moisture control is the answer to growing mold free grass.I just stopped my growing of greens outside do to cold weather here in central Il,USA.I have pictures of my sprouts in the Image Gallery here at curezone.com in the photos section under grassmans sprouts.Where are you located at and do you have pictures of your sprouts?Good luck and happy sprouting!
Could you tell me if the white cotton mold (which in some of the sites i think is described as spider web is dangerous) ,dont think i have slime mold on my wheatgrass.The mold looks dry and like a film of white cotton.
Am new to this still have to figure my way to images.
What you are describing is slime mold it starts out white and fluffy and spreads like a spider web.Later it will form a grayish mat around the base of the grass.Slime mold loves a wet acidic envierment,you can zap the mold with baking soda.Baking soda is alkaline and will alter the ph of the flat which is bad for the grass.Mold has to start somewhere during the growing process have you noticed anything that seems to start the molding?Does it start from a decaying seed,does it start on a very humids day,does it start on the edge and work its way in or in the middle?You can take proactive steps to limit the conditions that lead to molding.Pitch all the seeds that float they are dead and will just decay and cause problems.Rinse your seed 2-4 times to remove as much contaminates as possible while stimulating the seeds to come out of dormancy.Plant fewer seeds if aireation is an issue or use a fan to circulate the air.Use a dehumidifier to control humidity if your growing inside this can make a big differance.Once I put my seeds on the growing medium I dont directly water theme for 3-6 days,over watering is easy to do and simple to correct.Back off on the water until you can grow mold free consistantly,then start adding water until mold starts to return then back off a little.Just click on the words Image Gallery which is highlited in blue and you will arrive there.Then click on photos and scan down to grassmans sprouts and whala easy smeezy.How hot is it and how is the humidity,are you growing outside?Good luck and blessings.
Thanks for the advice.Mr Grassman
I followed all the steps and am now growing mold free wheat grass.Including using baking soda to wash in the early days as there was still mold on the last few trays of the top watering.
both the headaches and nausea have almost dissapeared.
She did have a couple of fits of nausea,but dont know if it could be attributed to the fact that I used young wheat grass-7 days normally it goes to -9,10 days.Or increase in medication dosage.
It is a releif to see mold free grass used to drive me up the wall,am also getting a much better growth.Using less seed.
Thanks once again and wishing you and all those good souls out there a Very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Do you have any pictures to share to see the setup? I'm curious how you keep the trays separated - the growing tray obviously must not sit directly into the water tray, so how do you keep the growing tray suspended an appropriate height above the "gravel" (which I assume to mean just a watering tray without gravel )??
Thank you! Really need to find a solution to excessive mold I get. All the recommendations haven't work - best seed I can get, air circulation ... nothing. Still lots of mold!
Sorry, new to forum and posted message but it wasn't clear what I was posting to. I think I have it now.
Holographic, what I meant was if you had any pictures of what your bottom-watering tray, your "gravel" tray setup looked like?
I know that I've had trays have a small amount of water in the "cache" tray below and I've raised the top, growing tray above the bottom one by a good almost 2" but still problems (I use large rings cut out of water bottles to sit the top tray on which lifts it out of the water).
But I _still_ get mold. I've tried everything in last 10 years and sort of things are okay now but not without a lot of effort to stave off the mold issue. Yours sounds a lot easier and sounds like it would avoid the problem altogether. But no-one else on the net so far has talked about a wicking approach and there are no YouTube videos that I can find. Again, just because I've already had trouble with drainoff that stays in trays, though water is clear, and still having mold. So wondering if we can get more details. Pix would be great, too.
With regards to the "gravel tray" you mention in your post, is there actual gravel in it (i.e., rounded pebbles, maybe?) that are usually in gravel trays, or is it just an empty tray, more like a cache pot type of affair but that you fill with water?
And if it's just an empty tray, how far up do you fill? I have had the problem where I used that approach, but since I use sprouting trays as you see in most people's growing situations, the roots actually rested in the water and I had a root rot-type of problem occur ...
Thank you! Your solution sounds good but just worried on how to fix it so I don't get root rot again. Like other shere, I've been desperate but I've been trying, unsuccesssfully, to grow wheatgrass for over 10 years with no real luck!
Just when I finally had something that seemed to work at least partially well, I ran into the old dreaded fungus gnats issue (though all these years I thought they were fruit flies!! Fungus gnats I finally found out!). And that's even when I'm not using any soil! I use 50:50 peat moss:perlite and still!
But one problem at a time. If I can get the watering issue fixed (root rot) perhaps the rest will follow ...
There are some great ideas in this thread so I thought I would let everyone know what worked for me.
I soaked the seeds for 12 hours in a ball jar, rinsed them well and drained them and left them in the jar with a piece of netting covering the opening with a rubberband.
I left the seeds in the jar and rinsed them and drained them about 4 times over the next 24 hours while they sprouted. Be sure to put the jar upside down in a dish drainer in between rinsing - just like you would do when sprouting other seeds in jars.
Then I spread them out over the damp soil. I was worried that I sprouted them too long and thought they wouldn't put roots down into the dirt. But nature is so darn smart. The grass grew faster with no mold.
I use the typical tray with the holes in it but I also have a solid tray to place it in. When I water the wheatgrass I check back after 10 mins and drain the water out of the bottom tray.
Mould forms from the seeds that don't germinate. This happens whether you grow them inside or outside. Some trays are better than others, but they guess 7-10% rot and the mould forms. The mould is then picked up by the roots of the seeds that do germinate and are inside the grass as well where you can't wash it off. This is what gives it that nasty bitter taste.
If you can grow our grass outside, preferably in the ground, leave lots of space between seeds. Sunshine will actually kill the mould.
The other benefit is that when planted in the ground, it can mature from a sprout to a vegetable, so it doesn't have the sugary sweet taste, but instead is very smooth like green tea.
Personally I react to indoor grown wheatgrass juice, and was told I was toxic and having a healing crisis, but I don't believe that anymore as you can't detox within seconds.
Even when I have the green powders and they use indoor grown wheatgrass juice, I want to throw it up.
I stick with my outdoor wheatgrass and using other greens like Kale, celery, and parsley in my juice.
There are muti task juicers that will do wheatgrass and greens.There are dedicated wheatgrass juicers such as the wheateena.The wheateena is a design to get maximum yield and quality and does a good job.They are very costly and more for a juice station at a store.Have you ever bought a juicer?This is not a good first juicer by any means.Omega makes a very good single auger juicer that will meet your needs a good price.I own a greenstar2000 and love it but it is my 9th juicer.Its a heavy duty juicer that does grass well but sucks on soft fruit.Good luck and happy shopping.
HI, wondering if anyone uses a refractometer to test the brix levels of their grass? For those unfamiliar the brix level is the level of carbohydrates in a plant and some allege that the higher the carb level, the higher the vitamin and mineral levels also. brix is measured by using an instrument called a refractometer.
I have heard that most tray grown grass brixes at about 5 or 6, but that optimum brix levels for wheatgrass would be around 20. i read about one guy who tried to get his grass up into the high brix levels and was unsuccessful.
High brix gardening is an equation thats easy to get a grip on.Sprouting is a whole different ball game considering what the plant is doing in its youthful state and the limitations of growing medium and container being used.Using compost teas and foliar feeding which is very labor intensive I have raised the brix to a whopping 5.This is a reading of dissolved sugars nothing more the rest is Brix Theory.I plan on trying a few new augments but I dont like the concept of brix at all costs including organic standards.Jeff.
The growing medium is mainly recycled compost from the compost pile along with the augments of azomite and kelp.The compost tea was brewed by my sisters boyfriend I have yet to venture into the art of brewing compost tea.There is a company called tandjent enterprizes that have a biovam product and tea kits.This gets away from the way I want to grow which is more of a purist tradition.I use a basic grow tray a 11-21 inch tray 1.5 inches deep which is problomatic as far as root binding is concerned.After speaking with many master growers on the issue of brix I came to the conclusion its impractical for sprouting.I will continue to experiment with grass but sunflower greens is my new passion I have some new seed from nutsoline.com.Il post pics. once the weather starts to cooperate.Jeff
i have tried to grow sunflower greens but just cant get them to sprout/grow correct. maybe i have had bad seed? i will look into the seeds you have suggested. have you brixed the sunflower sprouts yet?
i use 8 in. deep pots to grow my grass outside in. cant wait for this never ending winter to finally end so i can start growing again. growing high brix grass is my project goal for this summer so i cant wait to try it.
what kind of things were the high brix master gardeners telling you about brix levels re wheatgrass?
The seeds are not baby black oil which is best for sprouting.Babyblackoil seed is easier to dehull which can be a major pain.I do recomend the sproutladys BOS.seed but the cost is an issue.The handypantry and wheatgra SSKI ts.com have bulk sunflower seed and the seed is good and the price is ok.I havent brixed the sunflower greens but will this spring or summer.Sprouting and gardening are two differant modes of growing.In all the posts at the brix forum Im the only one to mention sprouting grass.There are alot of posts on pasture grass which dosent help much.The master grower title is for the head grower at a greenhouse,Michael Bergonzi at hippocratesgreenhouse.com will answer growing questions via email.I got the impression that high brix dosent even register from a greenhouse perspective.Prodution issues would make high brix difficult if not impossible.I have read about people growing high brix grass but have yet to actually speak with anyone claiming to have achieved this goal.
Yes, we do commercial farm and ranch consulting/education particularly focused on the organic side. Using fodder machines we have been growing various wheat, barley and oat grasses with different nutrients and minerals in order to find a high nutrient density grass that will build better livestock, more resistant to diseases and yielding higher quality levels of beef and milk. We are currently testing Barley grass growth in bio char outside of our fodder unit (mini makeshift greenhouse).Today we got our highest yet reading at 6.9 Brix for our barley seed. (8 day growth cycle). We suspect we will reach an average around 10 to 14 when our refinements are fully tested. Then we will look back into wheat, alfalfa, oat grass studies.
I've been doing research on superfoods and from what I've read, I kind of get the idea that Spirulina and Chlorella are superior to Wheatgrass.
In a few weeks I want to do a complete detox course, so I'm trying to figure out what products to use besides the regular cleansing shakes and herbs and the fruit and vegetable juices. I've been thinking about growing wheatgrass and drinking the juice, but all the stories about harmful mold etc, and the effort that has to be put in growing the grass... I don't know if I want to try this.
It seems like they have the same properties as wheatgrass, but contain more vitamins and minerals! The good thing is that they can also be used while juice fasting. You can make a green juice from pure water (or fresh fruit/vegetable juice) with chlorella and spirulina powder.
you are comparing apples to oranges. both wheatgrass and chlorella are great. but of course in my book wheatgrass is the king, end of story. others may disagree, but i have seen it work miracles.
here is the thing - i do not believe that the chlorophyl survives the drying and packaging process. i just don't. you can buy chlorophyl at the health store, its a samll bottle of green liquid. its worthless. i have drank many a bottle of this and never got any kind of benefit. i personally believe the chlorophyl starts to die the instant you cut the plant. that is why fresh wheatgrass cut, juiced, and drank on the spot is so powerful.
also i do believe there is a factor that Science has yet to learn how to measure, i call it the life force, that is contained within all plants. this force begins to wane the instant the plant is harvested from it natural growing environment. you can slow down the rate of decay but you can't stop it. ALL packaged food have a low life force, all fresh picked food have a high life force. another reason why i think sprouts and wheatgrass are so powerful - their life force is very high at the time you eat them. just my theory based on my experience.
i am not against chlorella, i think it is wonderful. but nothing compares to fresh wheatgrass.
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COPD/Heaves in a pony and a friend. I have been researching for an older friend of mine who has COPD. This time of year in the summer is hard for her... I recently purchased a pony that turned out to have Heaves/COPD and this weather is hard n her too. She does not seem to have the chronic heave line yet. She is on a track system which encourages a lot of exercise, some pasture, no barn or shavings.
I've been passionate about alternative remedies for years from ozone to peroxide, UT, CS, bach flower, homeopathy, EO's, Rife, herbs etc.
Anyhow, for now I have the pony on 50grams of sodium ascorbate that is divided up during the day, and 20,000 msm. I have found an alternative feed company and have free choice real salt, humic, kelp, DE, and minerals ... she looks absolutely fabulous, and certainly is improving. We are beyond the full on whooping type cough, and now she has days where she wheezes and rattles. Usually when the dose is decreased for whatever reason.
I messaged my ozone guy about the possibility of hooking up an oxygen mask to the pony to delivery the ozone from my medical ozone generator... he suggested injections would be better- outside my area of expertise.
Anyone have any other people testimonials (I can modify for horse) OR horse testimonials ??? Would love to do more if I can. Is it possible to completely reverse the condition or is it a life long management of the disease? Whats your opinoion?
I don't know much about horses, but I know they need vitamin D just every other mammal.
Vitamin E is another really good supplement for infections.
My mom has emphysema and was in the hospital with double pneumonia. She went home a few hours after I gave her 900 iu's vitamin E with 600mg coq10.