I have been renting out a house in Florida. It was build in 1980. Last year the flow became sluggish and started to overflow. I called in a septic pump, and they pumped it. 3 month later it happened again. I started to add RidX and this time it took about 4 months. I told the tenant to add RidX once every 2 weeks.
Then I had it pumped. And most recently the backup happened 6 months (He did not use RidX for sometime tho).
The drainfield is not wet. But the plumber did say I may need a whole new drainfield?
But I have been reading online and it says there are some possible solutions to this.
He did give me a lot more RidX and todl me to put in in the toilet every day and see if it helps.
To my understanding a drainfield is a natural biosystem and can be potentially restored?
I was wondering, before I go and spend 6+ thousand dollars, are there any solutions that I can try?
He did also say maybe I can try something called BioMat-X applied directly into the drainfield?
There is are two ways to avoid the SCAM of a new drinfield. Both are detailed in my special report...
There is are two ways to avoid the SCAM of a new drinfield. Both are detailed in my special report.
Your problem is caused by clogged up drain field pipes. The pipes get so clogged up that they block the flow of water.
1) There are companies in business that specialize in using a high pressure water pump to blast out the drain field pipes, then they use air pressure to "crack" the field. I have videos & details of this in my file. You can add chemicals to the drainfield ( Not the tank )
2) Add a LOT of worms to your drainfield. Australia uses worms extensively for drainfield clearing.
Quick what's what:
Tank was pumped July 2013
Late Dec. - Temps dive below freezing. Sudden abnormally Cold weeks on end. Temps 4 degrees plus wind chills. D-inlaw and wife whip through 8 loads of laundry. Other daily household actions (7 persons) continue as usual.
Bang - Pipes lock up - from normal flow to No Flow. Minor snow on ground(not insulation depth) and ground frozen solid. Cannot dig for a few days. Stop using any Drain water(pleasant - not)
Okay after a few days, able to dig out front inspection cover. Level is at Entry pipe upper 1/3rd Snakeed a bit and what exited covered pipe exit level. Stopped and covered - show storm and temps dropping.
Home in Full water conservation mode. minimal grey water to plant beds. Black water to porta-potty for disposal.
Temps rise a bit. Open front service access. Water level has dropped below pipe. Worked to free up house blockages. Not much luck and still Freezing. More Snow storms/sub freezing temps. Lock down again.
Finally Temps above freezing. Open Septic, level 8: or more below intake.
Snake out house lines and all drains flowing. Tank is rising rapidly.
Read all possible over the Months in preparation.
A lot of Grizz info seems solid and can be confirmed through other sources.
End of March. 3 Weeks Off to solve issue. Yea, Snow again/Rains/Freeze and finally a few decent days.
Fully uncover septic.
Tank is down again - water going somewhere(slowly)
Lines to house still flowing. Minor water usage to keep pipes moistened.
Allowed a few showers and a few flushes. Tank rose to center of drain pipe - Stopped water usage.
Attempted to snake out to D-box. almost impossible - maybe 5ft. and pulled a piece of plastic bag out.
Dug and located D-box
Removed Lid - Not flooded - Not in great condition, but not flooded.
Inspected Septic outlet line and found almost closed. Finger hole at best.
Prepared for full field treatment.
Tank Pumped out
Baffles inspected - good
Filter acquired for Exit baffle
Exit Pipe opened back up(still in progress)
Jetted Laterals to clear blockages - 3 laterals in system.
Small Jetter - 1500PSI
Verified low amount of septic sludge - mostly Non Flushable blockages - ahmmm.
Jetting and checking, ran about 300 Gal into laterals.(Good?)
2 treatments of sodium percarbonate so far, directly into each leach line.
Second treatment - Mixed in HOT water,flood filled lines and Capped lines to Push expelled oxygen into field.
*Will repeat 2x more then treat with Lime Sulfur followed by Roebic K-570 to boost/jump start Aerobic development.
Will maintain water conservation in an attempt to allow field to start healing.
NOTE: A 30' Pool was installed over the field 27 years ago. Several experts say - No Problem.
Septic is almost 4 feet below ground level.
Hi Grizz, ... More complications - what else would one expect? ... Friend with camera came out to ...
More complications - what else would one expect?
Friend with camera came out to check for broken line.
Pool Deck post damage - No post, but concrete blockage(20+yrs) I had broken out part of the Blockage with Jetter and pulled stone with snake. Camera showed No open(concrete sealed)
Leach lines were not thick with goop as far as I could clear. However there were a few obstructions.
Unfortunately D-box Shows (3) lines
Divining reveals (5) Lines approx. 11ft apart.
Bad news - Water slow to exit field.
Good News 80+ % or field is NOT under Pool.
All pipes turn after exit of d-box and 45* across yard.(and into Neighbors yard)
Will continue to end of preplanned attack.
Next steps if required will be to dig at Legal Trench ends, cut and Jet Lines to D-box, Add Service pipes and Terra-lift.
I foresee a long tiring and inconvenient project ahead.
Months of saving and preparation will be involved.
Shocked me, even learned how in minutes. ... Take (2) metal cloths hangers ... cut each at end of ...
Shocked me, even learned how in minutes.
Take (2) metal cloths hangers
cut each at end of bottom run and near top of one side(before kink)
Bend out slightly to form an (L)
Need (2) 6"-10" pieces 1/2" or smaller pvc.
Short end of rod in tube so it will react naturally
Holding one in each hand vertical at your sides, walk slowly through suspected field.
Crossing any pipe will draw the wands together(or to full opposing positions)
You must estimate to work across, not along each line to target the layout.
Took me about 30 minutes to identify (5) runs instead of (3)suspected and realize they were in a totally different location than I suspected. Also all are running in a Diagonal in my back yard.
Google - Images - Divining Rods Good examples for build
4-10 Update ... 3rd Percarbonate treatment. Purchased 4” expansion caps. ... Treated each line and...
3rd Percarbonate treatment. Purchased 4" expansion caps.
Treated each line and backed with 40-50 gal water. Capped each line to force oxygen expansion out to field and Not back out of piping.
Left each capped for several hours.
Field Took an estimated 160 Gal. of water and d-box is basically empty(no backup)
Grizz - Are your lines on a sloped land area?
first box to first line -
Overflow to second box to second line -
overflow to third box to 3rd line, etc.
Each field line will have a small box at the line head.
A side line will drop box to box to disperse effluent.
*If Box one gets blocked all remaining lines are DOA (UN-ACCESSABLE to effluent)
If you can access the first box - Jetting All boxes(may) be possible.
Jetting all lines may require locating ALL boxes.
Yes, my septic is on a slope, and your advice is very timely, as I am going to try out your tip on...
Yes, my septic is on a slope, and your advice is very timely, as I am going to try out your tip on divining rods and dig up the closest D-Box this week.
Message from CRXESS for the benefit of all:
Hope I'm not bugging you. While researching everything to work on my system, I have been following your adventure/Nightmare.
After your last post I did some research on what your septic people say you have. It seems to me, simple through not knowing the system design, you have been beating a dead horse. Not that you didn't have a solid plan. Just that it would not apply/function for your particular configuration.
If you indeed do have a Sequential system, you will need to locate each and every Drop Box and field line.
Have each thoroughly and independently Jetted.
Have each Drop line Jetted.
This will free up all of your mechanical system to flow effluent.
Now, Before attempting to close and use, you should start over and Treat each line in an individual manor.
Calculate your needs by the final Lateral count and lengths.
I know you have already invested a large chunk of cash but it still needs to be done. Likely only the Last line ever got any treatment and was still overwhelmed.
If all else fails, Terralift. Insist they punch Max depth and work up to create the most fissures possible and inject the foam pellets. Might even be wise to add Lime Sulfur through each rupture to work through the cracks.
Wish you all the luck in solving this.
Many thanks for your message. It all for one & one for all.
Messag from CRXESS: ... =================== ... 2 Feet deep you say? ... Definitely save your mone...
Messag from CRXESS:
2 Feet deep you say?
Definitely save your money.
Simple to find and faster than poking around the back yard.
1) use a 1/4" sewer snake through the service port you built. Go slow and be aware of any possible turn(probably none) once you hit the Box, Mark the snake with a piece of tape.
Pull back and measure distance.
Lay tape measure straight out(House/tank/outlet) ans the box should be approximately under the end.
2) Probe to confirm or Dig at that mark for the first box.
*Box should be from Tape end to 12" or so back under tape measure.
3)Once Box top is exposed - and 1"-2" deep additional dirt removed around box - Remove top.
4)Verify direction and repeat process to locate second box.
Repeat for all boxes. Additional boxes (in/Field/out)
Last box will be in/field lines.
Once you locate the first box - you should have all found in just a few hours.
Boxes are likely 12" x 12"
Latest update - 4-20-14 ... ... Did the final Percarbonate treatment 4-13 and hit the lines with ...
Latest update - 4-20-14
Did the final Percarbonate treatment 4-13 and hit the lines with 4 Gallons of Lime Sulfur on 4-16. Followed each chemical treatment with approximately 150 Gal. Water.
With Grey water conservation and Porta Potty usage, Tank is under 12" full in 1 month.
4-20-14 Today the field gets Roebic K-570 Treatment in hopes of kick starting the Aerobic process anew.
Next is installing and setting Speed levelers.
I have recently suffered a terrible horror story with my Septic Tank. The Septic Leach Field had totally clogged up resulting in backed up toilets & sinks. I had the septic tank pumped out and the Septic Plumbers said that I needed to have the old septic field dug up and all the sand, gravel & pipes replaced at a cost of $5,000 or MORE.
I spent hundreds of hours searching the internet to find inexpensive solutions to this horror story. I would like to share my discoveries with others, and more than half of Americans have septic systems that WILL clog up. So this is a desperately needed forum, YES! I rejuvenated my Septic Field and it was easy & inexpensive. It is now running like new.
Re: Need a new Forum - Non Health - S - Septic Problem Cures
It is good you live in the country and you can can get away with it. If you live in MA it gets reported to the Board of Health and they will tell you you have to replace the field and indeed you are looking more at $30k.
Since what you did is illegal here, people usually have their tank pumped every 3 years depending on the size of the tank. I know people with small tanks that do it every year.
We know where our tank and distribution box are. Also houses can not be sold here without a septic inspection.
I can’t believe that pouring a water + Oxy-Clean (sodium Percarbonate) mix into the septic field i...
I can't believe that pouring a water + Oxy-Clean (sodium Percarbonate) mix into the septic field is illegal. Can you show me the law? There is nothing to be found on the internet that says Sodium Percarbonate is illegal.
People around the USA have been using Oxy-Clean (sodium percarbonate) in their washing machine for decades. It is totally safe.
Yes, temporarily pumping a portion of the tank into the woods or an open field is certainly illegal in many parts of the country, so check your local laws. I said this in my document. If it is illegal, then get it pumped out by the Septic Guys to give you a few weeks to rejuvenate your septic field with Sodium Percarbonate. Paying the Septic Guys another $250 to pump your tank to give you time to rejuvenate your field is nothing compared to $30,000 to replace all the sand, gravel & pipes.
The only other things I did was to aerate the tank & add risers. Nothing illegal there.
If the corrupt liberal bureaucratic politicians won’t allow the use of Sodium Percarbonate ( multi...
If the corrupt liberal bureaucratic politicians won't allow the use of Sodium Percarbonate ( multiple trade names such as OxyClean, Oxy-Septic, and numerous other products all beginning with OXY ) http://www.oxyseptic.com/how-it-works/
then you can get around these unjust laws in other ways.
The object is to get oxygen into your drain field any way that you can. Oxygen will break up the biomat and restore flow. There are companies that will pump oxygen directly into your drain field, that quickly breaks down the biomat. They attach an air pump to the D-Box and pump air directly into the septic field lines. I could do this myself by attaching a rental air compressor to the Septic Tank outlet pipe. I think 10 PSI pumped into the leach field might work A-OK.
If your drainfield is just slow at absorbing water, you can install an aerator into your septic tank. This converts the tank from Anaerobic to Aerobic and the oxygen rich water will slowly break down the septic field biomat. http://www.septicairaid.com/index.html
As a bonus, it will be far more effective breaking down the solids in the tank. An aerator also eliminates most of the odors in the effluent. There are many aerators on the market. Google Septic Aerators for the list.
There are also companies that will come out and fracture the biomat in your drain field to get more oxygen into the biomat.
Do a google search of "Septic field oxygen" for more ways to get oxygen into your septic field. Anything is better than paying $30,000 for a new field that is not needed as MAKE WORK for the unions.
Here is another option you can use as a last resort. Let your septic field sit idle for 6 months to 1 year. Sitting idle allows oxygen to penetrate the biomat and break it down. Some people do this by adding a new 2nd leach field and they install a 2 way valve so they can switch their septic tank between fields each year. With this approach, you will at least get something worthwhile for your $30,000.
PS) Believe it or not, some of my neighbors have not pumped their tank out in 20 years ! ! I don't know why their septic tank is even working at all. They think that "Rid-X" or other toilet additives eliminates the need for pumping out the tank. (All the experts agree that pumping is still required) It will be a real mess when they finally get it pumped out!
IMO, the Septic Plumbers make it impossible for the homeowner to work on their own tank on purpose: Job Security.
It is so simple & easy to add risers to the tank during installation. I would not be surprised to hear that your Liberal state even has a law against that to provide more make-work for the unions. Remember New York unions blocking non-union volunteers from helping after Hurricane Sandy?
Thank you so much for all the info! I’ve been wracking my brain trying to figure out how to avoid ...
Thank you so much for all the info! I've been wracking my brain trying to figure out how to avoid a new septic system...no way can I afford it! I've even gone so far as to consider a waterless composting toilet! So scary! I'm wondering if any if your remedies might work on my system. The biggest problem is that it's not a "real" septic system. It was put in over 34 years ago and is a homemade, cinder block "tank" surrounded by rock and gravel and buried under what used to be well draining soil. The "tank" is very small and was intended for occasional use but things have evolved over the years and it's now needed full time. I've had to have it pumped twice within the last few months, the last time being only a few weeks ago and it's showing signs of being full of water again. Luckily the kitchen and bathroom sinks are a grey water system and run out onto trees (no clothes washer here). The soil surrounding has become exactly like you describe. Hard like clay. There are no lines going out from the tank that I know of. I'm wondering how I can get any of the remedies into the surrounding area. What about boring small holes here and there into the field and just pouring it in? I was almost sold on the aerator remedy until I read your story. Sounds like it would NOT work in this case. My next plan of action is to install a VERY low water dual flush toilet and to have the darn thing pumped AGAIN. Desperate and worried! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
How many people live in your house?
How far around your cesspool has the soil turned into clay?
I'm afraid I may not be much help on this one. I'm surprised it worked for so many years. There are only 3 chemicals that I know of that may help restore your drainage.
1) Sodium Percarbonate or the equivalent 30% hydrogen Peroxide to eliminate the "Biomat" Get hydrogen peroxide at a local pool supply store. I think you should use the hydrogen peroxide version because the sodium percarbonate only lasts a day or so, and you need to get into the surrounding soil which will take many days. 12 gallons might work.
2) Septic Seep or equivalent formula to eliminate the "Hardpan"
All are described in my doc.
If you can get your water flowing again with the above chemicals, I believe an aerator would help in your case to keep it running. Mike at this link has been very successful using an aerator in his seepage pit: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/wells-sump-pumps-septic-sewage-systems/4467...
Read through his messages starting at #1.
No matter what we do is going to cost $$$. If it were me, I would start with the 30% hydrogen peroxide, then do the Septic Seep and if that worked, then add an aerator. This action plan may not work and you may have to invest in a septic system anyway. I suggest getting a 2nd opinion here: http://www.selfhelpforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=7
These guys are good.
PS) You might want to use a sump pump & a long hose to pump water from your tank into the trees if you are out in farm country temporarily until you find a permanent fix.
Best of luck to you, let me know what works for you,
I only posted so people realize that not in every state you can do this. We also have wells and you have to have laws so you don't contaminate your neighbors well.
I have a friend who has a farm in Missouri and I am sure they can do what they want, since they have hundreds of acres.
To throw politics in your answer was not very mature. We are also talking about keeping people safe.
It is the same with testing well water, since we have a lot
of ledge you can have radon in your water and certain area's have high arsenic. So when people buy a house the water get tested.
Yes a failed septic system should be fixed to prevent contaminating the ground water but it is also important that
you keep your neighbors in mind.
Of course everything we do with a septic system must be done according to local codes, and the cod...
Of course everything we do with a septic system must be done according to local codes, and the codes are different in every state.
So always check with your local laws before working on a septic system.
This is the main document that goes with this forum:
Where the disclaimer says:
** It is the responsibility of the reader to follow all local rules and ordinances when applying information found in this document.
** WARNING: Working on septic tanks & D-Boxes can be deadly or hazardous. Dangerous gases can collect in the septic tank, & septic fluids can pose a health hazard. Please be extremely careful or hire a qualified septic plumber.
** It is recommend to hire a licensed professional septic service technician to do all work related to the septic tank, D-Box and additives described in this document.. and to obey all local laws.
Furthermore, there are viable alternatives to spending $35,000 for a new septic tank. This forum is to avoid wasting $35,000 for a new septic field when there are better solutions.
Our Message threads on Septic Tanks has paid off in spades. After rejuvenating the septic field with Sodium Percarbonate, we need a long term method to get oxygen into the septic field to prevent future clogging & slow-downs.
This gets the oxygenated water right where it is needed and when it is needed. As the water level rises out of the D-Box, aeration becomes more effective. IMO, this option is better than adding sodium percarbonate over & over because I'm afraid this may result in too much sodium in the septic field causing problems. Note below- It DOES cause serious problems. Aerating the D-Box water avoids all the problems from stirring up sludge in the tank, and adding too much sodium into the septic field. The ideal solution is to put a holding tank between the D-Box & the Septic tank, and aerate this water. But until this ideal solution, aerating the D-Box is a step in the right direction.
I will slide the 6 inch aerator sticks down through the exit pipe in my septic tank, and into the D-Box. The D-Box is usually within 25 feet of the septic tank. Photos of my septic tank exit pipe riser can be seen in my report below.
Complete details for this idea and complete report on rejuvenating our septic field with photos and a detailed report on aerating problems: http://tinyurl.com/Septic-Solutions
Hi Grizz, ... ... I’m very new to all this, but my septic system has failed and it sounds similar...
I'm very new to all this, but my septic system has failed and it sounds similar to your problems. I seem lucky in that my tank has 2 chambers and looks exactly like the diagram of a 2 chamber system you have in your google doc.
I've been pumped twice in 6 weeks. I know a LOT of solids made it in to the leach field because the baffle in my tank was deteriorating. I've had that repaired. My soil is full of clay.
The Septic Pumper already added 18 lbs of Add-Ox to my 2 leach lines. (Add-Ox is Sodium Percarbonate, Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Silicate) He used a hose and air pump to blow the dry powder directly in to the leach lines from the d-box. Even after that treatment, my leach field is draining very slowly.
So far 2 different pumpers have told me:
Pumper 1 (and contractor that installs septic systems): I need a new leach field.
Pumper 2: Many of the septic systems in my neighborhood have already been converted to engineered systems. In the coming years he expects the county to only approve engineered systems. That is likely what they will require now if I go for a permit. (my leach field was installed only 6 years ago) He recommends that I divert all grey water away from the septic system and that will allow it to work for another 15 or 20 years the way it is.
Right now I am considering going the route of aeration, a larger Sodium Percarbonate treatment and diverting all grey water to a separate system.
I learned about Septic Air Aid from your google doc. I've talked to Artie today and he is convincing. But, I couldn't tell from your notes if you found Artie to be con-ing you or if it was simple a mistake that you were installing the aerator in a single chamber septic tank.
I'd love to know your feeling about whether aeration may be the right path for me or not.
Thanks. (and yes, I'm not taking any one persons advice, but instead asking around for advice from everyone that I can)
Oh, and as far as using the liquid Lime-Sulfur mix. When should I consider using it? Once the Sod...
Oh, and as far as using the liquid Lime-Sulfur mix. When should I consider using it? Once the Sodium Percarbonate has restored the proper drainage? Immediately after I finish the multi day treatment with Sodium Percarbonate?
Here are my confirmed opinions. ... ... There are TWO major reasons why the septic field clogs u...
Here are my confirmed opinions.
There are TWO major reasons why the septic field clogs up:
1) The "Biomat" has overgrown with sludge. Oxygen is required to clear this condition.
2) Your washing machine, soaps and salt your family uses sends SODIUM into the septic field causing "HardPan" that is stopping the water flow. This condition requires the Septic Seep Formula
The Hardpan is by far the worst condition. I have seen septic systems last for 20+ years with the biomat never being serviced.
@@He recommends that I divert all grey water away from the septic system and that will allow it to work for another 15 or 20 years the way it is.
Absolutely do this ASAP to stop the sodium from getting into your leach field. He is RIGHT ON.Do you have a water softener? Make sure it goes into your grey water.
@@Right now I am considering going the route of aeration, a larger Sodium Percarbonate treatment and diverting all grey water to a separate system.
I have mixed feelings about aerating a dual chamber tank. Here is my opinion. It may work conditionally. Artie is a super salesman & has a fantastic web site. Here are the facts. The aerator will stir up the scum & sludge into Septic Soup. This septic soup will flow out of your chamber.
If the aerator is in the input chamber, then all the scum & solids will end up in your output chamber, and the output chamber becomes the "Settling Tank." Since you are starting with a freshly pumped tank, all new solids & scum will go into your output chamber, and hopefully settle down.
If the aerator is in the output chamber, then all the soup goes into your septic field to clog it up. Which chamber does Artie advise you to use for his aerator?
Artie has a stick aerator kit that is excellent for a D-Box. IMO, there is a 3rd option that I think is superior. Add a riser to your D-Box and then Aerate the D-Box instead of your septic tank. This gets the aeration right where it is needed the most and when it is most needed. It is most needed when the water level starts to rise and when toilets send all that water into the D-Box.
I think you will have a perfect and long lasting system by using sodium percarbonate to blast away the biomat, then a few weeks later use the septic seep recipe to remove the Hardpan, install a Greywater system to prevent the hardpan from forming again, and aerating your D-Box. The sodium left behind by the sodium percarbonate contributes to the hardpan, so it can't be used too many times without problems.
My experiments with effluent water in mason jars prove that if the septic tank water is UNDISTURBED in any way, the effluent becomes amazingly clear. So look at your input baffle. If you have a vertical 4 inch pipe as a baffle, then the BLAST of water from the toilet will shoot down into your sludge to stir it up. Hang a plastic plate 12 inches below the input baffle with stainless wire to send the blast horizontally to avoid stirring up the sludge. Or lay the baffle horizontally to send the blast across the water surface.
If you don't have risers on the D-Box, input & output of your tank, now is the time to do this. Now is the time to add an effluent filter if you don't already have one. You WILL need them. Bite the bullet now and live happily ever after.
That is my 2 pennies worth, and please keep us informed. My aerators arrived for my D-Box today. I'll have them running by the end of the week. I must also add a gray water system for the sinks, showers & washing machine.
Hello all and thanks again to Grizz for sharing is successes and probably more importantly his fai...
Hello all and thanks again to Grizz for sharing is successes and probably more importantly his failures.
Though I know your not a fan of aerating the 1 chamber tank Grizz, which is what I have, Casey (nice guy) over at Septic Solutions was helpful in explaining the many successes they've had with 1 chamber systems. The basics of what he told me were this and I would welcome your opinion on this Grizz. He said...
- Many of the products out there instruct you to put the diffuser by the outflow pipe. They recommend putting by their diffuser by the inlet pipe.
- Their system also has the following product which I have copied and pasted below.
"An item offered exclusively with our SepAerator™ Premium package is the Air Particle Recirculator. The Air Particle Recirculator is a barrier to prevent solid material from exiting your septic tank and entering the drain field. This barrier is essential when adding aeration to a septic tank. Under normal conditions in a septic tank the solids will separate by floating to the top as scum and sinking to the bottom as sludge. This cannot happen in a single chamber tank with aeration, as all of the solids are continually being mixed, therefore something must be done to stop them from leaving the tank.
"The Air Particle Recirculator functions as an effluent filter to stop particles, but has an added advantage over anything else you will see on the market today. A standard effluent filter under these conditions will have to be cleaned very regularly. By introducing air around the inlet of the Air Particle Recirculator, particles are pushed away from the inlet of the filter back towards the diffuser side of the tank where they will continue to break down. This action stops particles from entering and clogging the filter which allows for much longer periods between filter cleanings and produces a cleaner quality of effluent discharging from the sytem. Generally the Air Particle Recirculator will need to be cleaned every 3 to 6 months, but some systems have went as long as a few years without cleaning the filter.
"There is no other product on the market that has anything close to the Air Particle Recirculator. The Air Particle Recirculator gives our product the ability to properly treat the wastewater with a powerful air pump, yet stop solids from being pushed into the drain field."
The Science sounds good and they give a money back guarantee up to 6 months. That said, with what I've learned from Grizz's detailed documentation in the last 36 hours, the idea of aerating the D-box seems like a more simple solution if biomat is indeed the source of the slow drainage.
Ive been in my 35 year old house for 15 years. I will say that for a some time, don't really know how long, my tank's baffle was broken and I didn't realize it till I got it pumped about 10 years ago. Who knows how much 'crap' got down those D-pipes. I (like sciencesingalong) just had my single chamber tank and D-box pumped out about an hour ago after having the tank alon done a month ago. All kinds of thick black sludge came out of the D-lines. I just but 36 one pound containers of Awesome Oxygen at the Dollar Tree and am about to go put it in my leach field.
I do not have clay soil, it's on the sandy side. How much do I need to be concerned about hardpan? I haven't had time to fully read all the articles on hardpan but I plan to. Artie's website recommended an application of 9 pounds every other day 4 times. I'm pretty sure my lines will take more than 9 gallons of water. He said he's seen people put 30 gallons in at a time. I'm trying to decide if I should just mix up 30 gallons and pour it in the D-box and let gravity do the work or get a sump pump and inject the water into the lines. Will this make a difference?
I have no intention of diverting gray water unless I absolutely have to and will try to work with the system I have. Now that my tank is empty, D-box exposed and open, I need to decide what to do over the next few days as the water level in the tank starts to rise again and flow into the field. I'm thinking 4 - 5 days max though I will try to drag it out longer with shower and laundry restraints on my family of 5.
Ok...off to mix up the Awesome Oxygen. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for your input Grizz.
MainGuy, ... Please don’t mix all of it up at one time. It quickly degrades. Mix up a portion each...
Please don't mix all of it up at one time. It quickly degrades. Mix up a portion each day & spread over 4 days. I mixed 9 lbs per day into about 20 gallons of water. 1/4th of the 9 lbs of sodium percarbonate into a 5 gal bucket. Stir it frequently to make sure it is thoroughly mixed, and pour it into your D-Box. This will cure your problem of the Biomat. But it will do NOTHING for the hardpan.
IMO, the aerator should go into your D-Box and don't mess with your septic tank unless you improve the input or output baffles. All of the salesmen are "Nice Guys," that is how they make their living. I don't know anything about that product, so I am not going to disparage it. However if air is sent into your septic tank, it WILL stir up sludge. How many years was your septic tank running as a ANaerobic tank? ( 35 year old house for 15 years) How on earth can you improve on THAT? I suggest focusing on your septic field and leave your tank as an Anaerobic.
Trust me, the sludge in the bottom of your tank is like wisps of smoke. It is so easily stirred up by the SLIGHTEST of water movement, and it is zillions of microscopic sized specs. It takes well over a month to float back down to the bottom. Once it is stirred up NOTHING will stop it from getting through your effluent filter. Here is the link for what you are talking about: http://www.septicsolutions.com/SepticAerator/RepairSepticProblems.html
Get some sludge out of your tank and test it in mason jars to see what I'm talking about.
The guarantee means nothing because it will take 6 months or more for aeration to clog up your field.
Also, not discussed by those NICE salesmen is that 90% (per SepticSeep(tm) of clogged septic fields are caused by Hardpan created by sodium from washing machine, water softeners, diswashers, sinks & showers. The aerator sites lie by omission of the vital facts about hardpan. If you don't install a graywater system, then you need to pour septic seep(tm) or equivalent into your drain field annually. Aerators will do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING for hardpan.
Re: Where to Get Lime-Sulfur + Surfactant for clearing HardPan
Sorry my report is getting long on the tooth. I need to reorganize & simplify it.
See your nearest Farmers Co-Op or your nearest Tractor Supply or similar farmer store and ask them to order it for you:
Lime-Sulfur for only $68 at your local Farmer's Co-Op; Miller Chemicals #45512. (Cannot be ordered on-line.)
See your local Tractor Supply or other farming store to order, they don’t stock it, but will order for you. Ditto for the Triton X-100.
PS) My septic tank is running GREAT since I got rid of the aerator, & my last rejuvenation with 2 gal of Lime-Sulfur, now running > 4 weeks with ZERO sludge in the effluent filter and the tank water level perfect. I am feeling good that my horror story might finally be ending. I'll be taking new effluent water samples in Mason Jars soon and give a report.
Hi Grizz, ... ... Could you please explain the lime sulfur application process? I realize you ne...
Could you please explain the lime sulfur application process? I realize you need to add 10% surfactant but how much is applied to the field? Is it mixed with water? If so, how much.
Also, I looked at the home depot effluent filter that's on your google doc and all the choices that are available at Septic Solutions. Big range in price from $40 - $150. Any insight would be appreciated. I'm assuming I better get this filter installed before my tank fills up again? I'm also thinking that if the outflow T-pipe is glued in I'll need to cut it to adapt the filter to it? I'm somewhat handy but having a little trouble envisioning the process.
2nd treatment of Sodium Percarbonate to be applied tomorrow.