So I thought i should put it in a popular and widely read forum as this will allow more people to be aware of it.
I am not here to discuss/argue/debate about the merits of Colloidal Silver or otherwise.
Only to discuss an extremely simple way of production.
i have come to advise you all about this...
after studying colloidal silver production for many years i tested the output of solar garden lights and they give out an output voltage from about 5 v to 13 volts depending on model/make and this is usually pulsed rapidly.( i used a diode capacitor smoothing filter to measure voltage.
(optional:- you can either smooth it using a diode/capacitor or just leave it as is.)
so go buy a cheap garden solar lamp for $1 and simply remove the led and attach your 2 silver wires which should be spaced by 3 centimeters apart or 1.5 inches apart apart.
the whole thing can be build out of the garden solar light including attaching the silver wires to garden solar light casing by making holes in it.it is soft plastic.
insert the 3 cm apart parallel silver wires into a glass beaker filled with boiled water.
freshly boiled water can be used or use water which has been boiled and then has cooled down.
this eliminates any dissolved gases,kills any existing pathogens.
you can use cold water straight from the tap as well if you have good quality water with low dissolved salts,etc.
if you wish you can go to the expense of distilled water as well.up to you.
i only normally use water which has been boiled and then has cooled down to room temperature.
colloidal silver will be produced very slowly and of very high quality by a solar garden light.for a large glass jar of 2 or 3 pints takes 3 hours.
use a torch beam and shine it in to the jar.it will become cloudier the longer it runs.stirring is a good idea.
no colour change should happen or be expected.
only costs $1 or $2 for solar garden light plus silver rods which cost $20 i think...
it can be left next to the window to recharge the internal battery via the solar cell...MAKE SURE WATER FILLED BEAKER IS SHIELDED FROM THE SUN to avoid degrading colloidal silver.use silver paper or cardboard,etc.
the pulsed very low current 5 to 13 voltage spikes will produce very small particles of silver.
some solar lights produce about 5 or 8 volts and some up to 13 volts.
but in any case this IS very simple,cheap and effective way of doing it.
also instead of removing the led altogether just cut one the led's legs and use the output from their to connect to the silver wire rods.
in effect the led will be in series with one of the rods and will give a visual indication of current flowing through the water.or replace with red led as absorbs 1.5 volt instead of 4.5 volts.
It will take a long time to make the colloidal silver but this is not for MTV attention span people.you can switch it on and watch x factor,america next top model or even have sex.
to activate cover the solar cell.to stop it uncover it.some garden solar lights have on/off switches as well.
i also measured the frequency of the output of solar garden lights and it varies from 60 kilohertz to about 900 kilohertz.
the output is being switched on/off that many times.if you do leave the led in series it will take more like 4 or 5 hours to make and only 1 of the silver rod will turn black as the led acts as a rectifier.
it if you bypass/remove the led then both rods will become black as the current will be more nearly like alternating current with a duty cycle of 60% to 90%.i measured all of this with a multimeter which can measure frequency and duty cycle as well as voltage and current.
i am an electronics specialist so i know what i am talking about.
there is no danger of runaway colloidal silver production as the output of a garden solar light falls of very rapidly with increasing load current output.
you do NOT need to use 3 x 9 volts batteries and then limit the current with a resistor.this is absurd and pointless.
it is found that low voltage low current of less than 0.0005 amps gives more consistent and more finer particle size.
also pulsed current or a/c silver is even finer.
also regular stirring can make a further difference.you can use a bubbler or a mini fan stirrer.
in fact using low current pulsed d/a or a/c will produce the smallest particle size. my set up also a has mini stirrer which switches
on /off every 5 minutes.i adapted it from a battery operated air freshener.
my current project is to make colloidal silver over 30 hours by putting a 10 kilohm resistor in series with the silver rods.this will make the current go down to about 50 microamps.
so the advantage of this method is low cost/complexity and takes only 5 minutes to make the colloidal silver maker.no external batteries required as it charges using sunlight/daylight.
i recommend leaving the led in series so you can see the current flowing and gives a visual indication although it takes 1 or 2 extra hours to make.
do not let the long post scare or frighten you.I have tried to keep the sentences short and avoided paragraphs where ever possible..
i was merely explaining the methods and reasoning.
so go out and buy the cheapest garden solar light cut one of the leads of the led bulb and attach the 2 silver rods and insert in water.it is really that simple.
You mentioned ghat you know electricity. How is a resister supposed to be set up? Just in-between the one rod and and a positive or negative wire or is it suppose to touch both the positive and negative. I don't know anything about electricity. I ask because im thinking if it's the first way it would just limit the current going out vs the other way to limit the current actually allowed in the water.
To see where I'm coming from go to atlasnova and click on how to make cs and look at their pic. Im not comprehending how resister is even helping. I set it like there pic but let's say I use 6 9v batteries the voltage goes above 35v. So i must be mixed up in thinking it limits volts. Could you please explain this because I'm lost. I'd be very appreciative.
An interesting and creative approach. I would be interested in the current density value you are using, in other words the ratio between applied current and the wet surface area of the negative electrode. Thanks
the lower the current the smaller the particle size.
If such were the case, then one would suppose that a single 9 volt battery would produce smaller particles than three 9 volt batteries and would also produce smaller particles that the home units with 27 volts and up. Just the opposite is true. One of the best ones I know about is a 48 volt unit which also produces more true colloidal content than other units. Likewise, the two commercial products which have been tested to have far and away the smallest particle sizes are produced with very, very high voltage - though they do not use basic electrolysis.
Have you tested for PPM?
I am not saying that your setup does not produce quality colloidal/ionic silver, but there are a lot of people who know electronics and make colloidal silver generators - and what you are doing goes against the grain of most of them.