This is my newly built Dr. Beck's Blood Cleaner / Electrifier device. I needed something portable, but was not ready to spend $200 for Sota device.
I was able to find step up circuit on the internet that allows 9 vdc single battery supply to be stepped up to 33 vdc.
Battery will be effective for about 60 hours of use at which point it should be replaced (sooner if you have well insulated skin, my skin is paper thin, so even 9vdc gives me good tingle)
Input voltage of 33V dc from single 9v dc battery. Fits small enclosures of 3.8x2.4x.9 inch. Portable to wear on the go.
I omitted power checking LED circuit as I can feel when the battery gets too low in power. I get fairly strong tingle all the way down to 9V dc.I personally cannot keep it on full power for too long.
The board size is still large enough to fit the 2 zener diodes and one 22uF capacitor and jumpers to LED for operation display. Mounting this LED on a small case is more of a challenge due to limited space in some enclosures.
. Note there are 2 plastic enclosures listed here (only choose the one you want - the smaller enclosure will require drilling in to circuit board and will not have room for CS circuit, while the larger ones will not need any drilling and will allow for full beck device circuit and the 9V-33V step-up circuit. These 9v enclosures should come with 9v battery connector). I used awg 22 copper wire for jumpers and awg 22 stranded copper wire for electrodes leads (I make them long enough to snake from breast pocket down to my wrist under a shirt).
There will be drilling required on the face of the enclosure.
Happy building all.
Mouser #: 513-NJU#7660D
Mfr. #: NJU#7660D
Desc.: Converters and Converter Control Ics Voltage Converter
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Mouser #: 616-61985-510-039
Mfr. #: 61985-510-039 HM-9VB Bone Kit
Desc.: Plastic Enclosures Kits KIT 2.4X3.8X1.0
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Well I finally got a smaller enclosure with removable battery cover. So the final case size is 3.8x2.4x.9 inches in size (about cigarette pack size or old audio cassette tape enclosure)
Good idea. You can almost find out anything you want to know using the internet. Now you can use just one battery instead of three 9v batteries. So you will have a smaller lighter package. I wonder if Sota uses the same circuit?
It runs of the 110V AC or 220v AC. If one wants to add some safety one could use 1:1 transformer 110V, but that would make this device more complicated and bigger and more expensive. The transformer would separate the source current adding safety just in case wire insulation breaks exposing user to high current. Putting resettable or just blow fuse in the circuit would be helpful as well. As the instruction say it is best to run it from a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt) protected outlet - code requirement for bathrooms and kitchen outlets, one might find them on a outlet power strip extension cord (rare to find).
I do not believe that this device is as penetrating as the thumper, but it stimulates electrical currents far more in exposed tissues due to high speed Pulsed Electro-Magnetic Field (PEMF). Due to this caps must be lower power/high voltage to keep the unit from cooking. Thumper has considerable current going through it, which results in fairly higher temperatures on the components, including the coil, thus thumper is best to be hand triggered at slower pulse rate.
There are tons of circuit schematics on the net for 9v dc powered high voltage output. To keep charging times as short as possible one need to get caps that are around .1uF to 10uF at 330V or higher - photo flash caps are preferred for quick discharge. I have not tried it yet so one needs to experiment with this.
Good luck and happy zapping.
Update: I have found US patent for this device (US 7,175,587). It runs on 9V DC it produces 2 gauss magnetic output flux / 72 times per second at 15-20 amps. This patent has electronic diagram and parts list listed. It is well know that electrical current is present only during the change in magnetic flux (constant magnetic flux does not excite mineral ions in the tissue, only pulsed magnetic flux does this) and that is what makes this device effective in tissue and bone healing. And now we have a recipe in how to build one for our selves (it is patent protected - thus no resale of your own built device - unless you use different dc circuit to run it.) Second benefit is you do not need lots of expensive magnetic wire (3 spools of magnetic wire package sells at Radio Shack for $7 dollars get the AWG18 or 16 - the lower the AWG number the more current it can handle and less heat is produced)- on this device you probably need just 1-3 inches of magnetic wire.
I finally got my blood electrifier working. Thanks for your help. I wanted to build a Magnetic pulser now using a mini party strobe light and change the capacitor to handle more power. Do you have any knowledge in how to do this?
The 35V 22uF CAP is I believe the original part list in design. The maximum voltage that is called for in this part of circuit is 33V. CAPs should be sized at 1.4 times the maximum voltage exposure. 50V 22uF CAP would be preferred, but the 35V will work just as well. I have selected that 35V in my build for the physical size of the part only. If you have more room on your circuit board then you can easily place larger cap there.
This part of circuit is not critical for device operation. It drives the LED indicating light that tells you that batteries only supply 17 volts after which the LED will stop blinking.
Now you really don't want to hear all the cussing I go through putting it together, lol, do you?
On the other note:
My stainless steel forks were leaching iron a lot (for electrical conduction one needs as hard of material as possible. Even Implant grade metals have soft materials in them which will leach out, stick with pure hard metals like titanium rods). So I ordered 98.9% titanium 1/8" rod/wire, works like a charm little oxidation on the rod surface, but nothing leaching in to cotton cloth wraps.
I got mine from McMaster.com online, part number 89145K313 (3 foot long 1/8" dia. 98.9% titanium rod - cost $16.22 - used by electroplating companies for its durability and non-reactive property in highly acid environments)
Q: "the diodes: what values do the have? (are thy 1n4001 1A 50v) or something else. i was looking for these with out luck (1N5817 schottky)
what have you used?"
A: The diodes need to handle about 38V DC max, when battery is new as they are slightly more then 9VDC(9.65 VDC), so I went with 1N5819 schottky, but the 1N5817 given in part list will work too, so will the 1N4001 with about -1 VDC less output.
Q: "how about the capacitors:
did you use do like it is describe. 25v 35v and for the 3th set 50v or you used again 35v and at what µf (micro farads)you use?"
A: Yes I used 2 pairs of 25, 35, and 50 V polarized electrolytic capacitors and all are at 10uF. But if you get just the 50 VDC for all of them it will work too. (it recommended to use capacitor's size 1.4x the needed voltage - if you need 10V then 1.4x10=14v capacity)
Q: "and as i can see from the picture you used a TLC7660CPA.
i was looking for all the ones mention in the plan.
A: I used both the TLC7660 and also NJU7660D chip for my second build, they both worked the same. As long as it is 7660 it will work, the other numbers are generally manufacture specific. Just to make sure look up the datasheets for these components on the internet. The MAX1044 has hyper circuit (when this circuit is turned on it will increase output frequency which is not needed for our design).
+V from battery (through switch)connect to pin 8 then start first rectifier diode from this pin (8) also as in the diagram. Use the negative side from caps to pin 2 as per diagram, connect pin 3 to negative side from battery. Pin 1 is not used (that is the hyper circuit on MAX1044 - not needed - it ups the Hz to around 1,200 HZ instead of 120Hz output side --- Beck's circuit will fix this - no need to worry).
Mouser.com has large selection of plastic enclosures that have removable 9V battery compartment built in, just search "plastic enclosures 9V" then choose the size that will fit your circuit board -
Circuit board info: One can find bus-prototype circuit board at radio shack. It is one long board that has single power strip on each side and the component connectors have 5 component spots per side.
Like this: X XXXXX XXXXX X
I used the bus-prototype circuit board that I then cut to size with sharp circular box cutoff saw that has very sharp blade (do not use jigsaw as it will shatter the edges of the board - never use gloves with saws of any type - if it gets caught by the blade it will pull your hand into the saw!!!!!!).
Can anyone help me, i have been making my own becks electrifier and calloidal silver maker, its took me ages, 3 days, but i cant seem to get it right, i built in from start to finish on a blank board, the bulb lights when i turn it on but then when i press the test button the LED's are supposed to flash alternatively but they only both stay lit on ,no flashing, can anybody help me as i am really trying my hardest and i really need this to work ASAP. its the 1 with 3 batteries by the way.
take a picture(s) of your circuit and jumpers to led, phone jacks and adjustable resistor. If you have jumpers on the bottom of the board take picture of that too. and PM me with these. You will have to upload the pictures and then link back to them in your post ( save the address after upload )and I will try to trouble shoot your components and circuit connections. If the components are not identifiable on the picture please describe the specification for it (like: CAP 22uF 50V).
please help me, i have been making my own becks electrifier, its took me ages, 3 days, but i cant seem to get it right, i built in from start to finish on a blank board, the bulb lights when i turn it on but then when i press the test button the LED's are supposed to flash alternatively but they only both stay lit on ,no flashing, can anybody help me as i am really trying my hardest and i really need this to work ASAP. its the 1 with 3 batteries by the way.
please can you help, i hsve been working on this for 4 days, everything is fine except for the LED's stay on constantly instead of flahing alternately, is it one of the components is faulty, i have checked the whole thing through many times. Thanks
you might just have these connectors mixed up, so when you insert the plug it should disconnect this led circuit from operation (this will save your battery life). This circuit have no other function but to let you know that you are still getting at least 18V dc out of your batteries.
If you have one of the active electrodes on the pin that will disconnect (led circuit), when the plug is inserted, then you have lost connectivity and the device will not function correctly.
also that capacitor is 35 volts 220uf and it should actually be a 20 volt 200uf
my resistor colours are as follows:
R4: brown black red - 1k
R3: red red red - 2.2k
R2: brown black green - 1M
R1: brown black yellow - 100k
Have i calculated the colours of the resistors correct or are any of them wrong. Everything else has been checked and appears correct. I seem to have found a mistake on the capacitor so i will change as soon as i can get to the shop in the morning. What do u think , do u think that could be causing the whole problem, i am getting excited again as it might work if thats the problem, this is day 5 lol, i bet you never saw anything like this, i am an electrician and only did electronics at college so it takes a little explaining before i get my head around it but i seem to be getting there with your help, your a good teacher, thank u for your help so far. Thanks
have you measured output from your electrodes? is it 27v? if it is not it could be wrong size resistor.
check the polarity of CAP 22uF 50V, also check the direction of zenner diodes, and also make sure you are using .1 uF CAP from pin 2 to ground - if you have wrong CAP here it will increase or decrease the frequency of output. I mistakenly put a smaller CAP I had available from building Hulda Clark Zapper which is .01 uF (LOL only 1 zero difference but my frequency was 3,500 Hz) so the led appeared to be constantly on.
next thing to check if you are using the correct resistor sizes in correct locations.
here is quick resistor color code:
1st and 2 color - 3rd color
Black = 0 - black x 1 or 0 x 1 = 0
Brown = 1 - Brown x 10 1 x 10 = 10
Red = 2 - Red x 100
Orange = 3 - Orange x 1k
Yellow = 4 - Yellow x 10k
Green = 5 - Green x 100k
Blue = 6 - Blue x 1Meg
Violet = 7 - Silver divide by 100
Gray = 8 - Gold divide by 10
White = 9
Fourth color band = tolerance
Gold = 5%, Silver = 10%, none = 20%
Ok great advice, i have checked the voltage at the jack leads, its zero, at the taper pot the voltage is 27 volts, also the voltage at the test switch is 25 volts, i have checked the polarity on the diodes and capacitors and they appeaer to be ok by the eye, i am working to a different schematic to the 1 that you showed me, mine is much older version.
This page above is the schematic i have using and as far as i know its supposed to work as its the original 1. what would you advise as the next step, i really appreciate this, sorry i did not get back sooner but its 5am here and now i am wide away and working on it, what do you need to know next?